FAST FORWARD

Fourth time in China - first time in Beijing.

And I am so lucky. A cheaper and earlier flight across, combined with a cancelled meeting on Sunday, buys me extra time in the Beijing region. And before I know it, the carfreax network has caringly absorbed this lonesome traveler. Although I manage to only catch one hour of sleep on my Moscow-connected flight, I decide to grab my chances - and after a damn' good cup of coffee I find myself on an orange (!) coloured designer bike, trailing closely behind my host, criss-cross past the Beijing highlights. Jetlag is for sissies! A snapshot tour, shooting from the hip. Three hours to go, the clock is counting. Yet, I am so lucky. Thank you Wout!

From the stylish hi-brow residential areas to the city's hutongs is just a fifteen-minute ride. We cross some of the huge circular motorways and before I know it we find ourselves in what feels like an intimate and tiny village. Controversially, this is where the true heartbeat of the giant metropolis sounds. Miniscule houses, tiny shops. Workshops and showrooms on the pavement. Bird and grocery shops give colour to the grey overtones. Streetlife. The bicycle still proves to be an invaluable means of transport to get around - certainly in these narrow streets. 

It is hard to believe that only six years ago, half of the Beijing population lived like this (source: Wikipedia). No sanitary rooms, no electricity. Such confrontation with the speed of development here. Yet, these are real pearls in the cultural necklace that is Beijing. Luckily, the authorities are aware.

We carry on and reach the Drum- and Bell Tower, two towering structures, which are even more impressive with the empty square in between. How different that must have looked, last week, when China celebrated its 'Golden Week' national holiday. This square is where China time was kept and communicated, across many dynasties, 'till way into the twentieth century when modern day clockwork finally replaced it. The soldiers of old are now frozen in time - like ancient Han Solos - while their modern day colleagues are busy exercising drills, a couple of miles away, inside the Forbidden City walls. This is Old Beijing's central axis, no longer the city's main north-south connection but certainly the cultural spine of the city.

We make our way back south, past the beautiful lakes where the top party officials live today. Tons of clubs and bars by the lakeside. I'll be back tonight, when this will be the center of activity. It's now or never.

Meanwhile it's 5 PM and this Cinderella is racing the clock. Sunset at six! We make it in time for the much-anticipated meeting with Chairman Mao, as he is overlooking the hugely impressive Tian'anmen Square. Together with huge flocks of Chinese tourists, we witness the flag lowering ceremony as the invisible sun sets over Beijing - and decide to call it a day.

Three hours after the start of this brilliant bicycle ride we make our way back to base camp. Dodging the swelling waves of commuter traffic and zig zagging back on iPhone generated directions, we zap back through the Beijing of today: the enormous Russian district, an orange-themed Lamborghini showroom and a Tron-esque ring road infarction. 

It's the white against the red this time. Hard to choose sides.

- Geert.

Comments

[Mattijs]

@Geert: read it in one breath, trying to keep up the pace of your impressions. Beijing by bike is the best treat one can get to soak up the street life. Great pics and story! Love the aquarellic landscapes at the top.

[Fab]

Great to have the next one here on the CN page! I also really like your story and yes Beijing by bike is still the perfect mode to get to know this Metropolis!
@Mat: you wanted to post even more? What a show down yesterday ;-)

[Rik]

I'll be damned, what's with the bikes, thought I was on Carfreax.com ;)

Great impressions Geert, completely in line with Matt's and Fab's, very inspiring indeed.